Canada: Syrup & Salt, Sweet & Saucy
In my teenage years, I visited Canada as a tourist. Back then, Canada’s Wonderland, the Toronto Zoo, Marine Land, and the Niagara Falls, satisfied my youthful curiosity. In my late teens and early twenties, I returned to Toronto as a student. This time, I was captivated by Toronto’s active night life, the shopping malls, and the museums. In my adult life and as my focus changes, I continue to experience Canada in new and exiting ways, as the country slowly reveals her hidden attributes. Canada is a whole lot more than meets the eyes. This recount of my road trip is but a single spice of the intensely flavorful creation called "Canada."
One long weekend while on school break, my friend and I journeyed through Toronto, Quebec City, Montreal City, into the small towns of Fredericton and Moncton, onward pass the vast forests and mountains of South Eastern Canada, all the way to Prince Edwards Island. It was a trip packed with thrills and chills, excitement and awe, fascinations and surprises. From cities lit with thousands of light bulbs and bubbling with excitement, through dark, eerie forests, up steep, majestic mountains, along deep, clear-blue lakes, we forged our way to the peaceful shores of the island. . . . That all sounds poetic and romantic, right? As well it should since Canada is well known for being reserved, clean, and polite. But while Canada is known for its gentility and civility, Canada is by no means monolithic. The country is as much natural and untouched as it is civilized and developed. It is as savory as it is salty, and as saucy as it is sweet.
One cannot talk about Canada without reference to its famous maple syrup. The iconic leaf in the center of the flag reminds us of the sweetness that flows from the heart of the country. Canada produces over 70% of the world’s pure maple syrup and approximately 90% of this syrup is produced in the province of Quebec. Tourists interested in learning more about the process of maple syrup production can visit one of the farms located here. Quebec, being our first stop after leaving Toronto, Ontario, is also where my story begins and centers.
Montreal and Quebec City are located in the province of Quebec and are distinct from Toronto in that they have a heavy French influence. We were immediately struck by their pompous charm which is almost Napoleonic in nature, and for a moment, we were transported out of Canada into Paris, France. People spoke French, businesses had French names, and there was a deliberate attempt to sprinkle “joie de vivre” over very sidewalk in the cities. There are museums that tell of their French heritage, restaurants which preserve French culinary traditions, and yearly festivals which celebrate francophone culture. Truly, the province of Quebec is more French than France itself! Even the famous KFC restaurant which is called “KFC” in France, is renamed in Quebec. In Quebec, if you wish to visit KFC, you must look out for the the red and white chicken with the words, “Poulet Frit Kentucky”.
The province is not only pro-French, it is anti-English. As we walked around the town, we noticed that signs that were originally written in French and English were defaced, and English words and instructions were scratched out, erased, or covered over. And just in case you miss the message being portrayed by all the visuals around you, the Quebecois will ensure that you get it. I'm slow and had to learn the hard way. Wanting to call home to let my family know that we were safe, I approached the concierge at our hotel and asked her if there was a pay phone nearby. I asked three times in English and she pretended not to understand. Finally, I asked in French. When I asked in French, the concierge looked at me, smiled, and responded in English, “You are in Quebec. Since you know French, why don’t you speak it?” She then provided me with instructions in English. Frankly, I was too shocked by her sauciness to take offense. I breathed a humble "merci", thanked God that I know French, and rushed off. I left Quebec with a greater appreciation and a nuanced enlightenment. It is not just the sweetness of the maple syrup that flavors and makes this country unique, there is also a strong hint of sauciness which balances the syrup.
And now that I mention "saucy", I feel that I must talk directly about food. Apart from syrup, Canada is known for its pea meal bacon which is unsmoked and slightly salty. Few people know about poutine. Poutine is french fries slathered in brown gravy and cheese curds. And why couldn't the Canadians be satisfied with ketchup or mayonnaise on their French fries? Well, because it’s Canada, and Canada has its own way of seasoning the pot. Poutine is a savory dish which could only have originated in the sweet saucy context of Canada.
The entire country is as diverse and intriguing as its cuisine. Just as the different flavors challenge and develop the palate, Canadian people and their environment work together towards harmony.
As we journeyed from larger cities to small towns, through densely-wooded forests, along rivers and lakes, over mountains and plains, Canada’s culture, flora, and fauna, intertwined and unfolded before us. The natives in the smaller towns were kind and offered us foods that tasted fresh and home-cooked. My friend and I still laugh about a pizza restaurant that boasted of being “The Best Pizza Place in Town.” It was literally the only pizza place in town and the only restaurant for hundreds of miles. It was a memorable place. The food was good and the hospitality even better.
The environs are just as welcoming as the people. In mountain regions, camps sites located close to hiking trails and fishing holes provide different opportunities to explore nature. Massive forests offer a bounty of game for hunters. Often, the scenery left us wanting more. Our final destination was the icing on the cake. Prince Edward Island is breathtaking. Swimming, fishing, and kayaking in the pristine waters was exactly what we needed after the long drive and as we prepared for our round trip back to Toronto.
Until next time
Venture Out. Keep exploring. Travel Smart and Stay Safe.
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(Some of the photos used in this article do not belong to me.)
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